Everything about Traditional Climbing totally explained
Traditional climbing, or
Trad climbing, is a style of
climbing that emphasizesthe skills necessary for establishing routes in an exploratory fashion. Before the advent of
sport climbing, the normal style of unaided rock climbing was what is now referred to as
"traditional". Trad climbing usually involves the leader ascending a section of rock while placing
their own
protective devices as he/she climbs.
Route finding,
effective gear placements, self control, and good climbing skills are essential. Normally, such climbs
are not previewed or rehearsed on a top rope (with or without tension), and emphasis is placed on
passing difficult sections on the first try. As a form of
free climbing, only the limbs and body
of the climber are used to effect upward progress, and protective devices are placed solely to catch
the climber in the event of a fall.
Types of Protection
The majority of the protection placed while leading a traditional line doesn't consist of permanently
installed bolts, but of removable protective devices such as
Carabiners and
slings are then used to connect the protection gear to the
climber's lead rope, so that in the event of a fall, the rope can be used (by the belayer below) to 'catch'
the falling climber. Modern traditional climbs very rarely have placed bolts, except in the case of
difficult lines that lack the features necessary to place adequate removable gear. It is also considered
extremely bad style to install new protection bolts on existing climbs that can be completed without them.
Commonly used Knots
A number of knots are required for traditional climbing, to create anchors, to tie in the climbers
and even to be used during the climb.
Figure 8 is commonly used to tie in the climbers at both ends.
Inline Figure 8 is mostly used for anchors.
Clove Hitch is sometimes used to make a climber safe quickly at a belay ledge
Alpine Butterfly can be used to tie a climber into the middle of a rope.
Munter Hitch is commonly used to belay without a belay device
Slip Knot can be used during a climb to sling a protrusion of rock known as a chickenhead
Anchors
When a climber has reached the top of a climb an anchor must be set up to allow the leader to
bring up the seconder safely. An anchor has a number of different components
which should be put together in a redundant way to make the anchors safe.
Protection - An anchor typically consists of 4 pieces of protection with the minimum being 2 pieces.
Cordelletes/Web-o-lettes/Rope - These are used to tie the pieces of protection of the anchor together using
the above mentioned knots
Carabiners - Are used to connect the pieces of protection to the rope and also to attach the belay device and lead climber to the anchor.
Bailing
In some cases a traditional climb may be too difficult or there might not be enough time to complete the climb before dark. The lead climber may decide to abort the climb (or "bail") and descend to the ground before reaching the top. To do this an anchor is set up mid-climb and whatever protection that's required to ensure a safe descent is left on the rock after the climbers abseil to the ground.
An example of how a Traditional Climb is performed
Leader places gear on his/her harness
Leader ties into the rope using a Figure 8 knot.
Seconder ties into the other end of the rope.
Seconder puts the leader on belay using a belay device or munter hitch.
Leader climbs up and places the first piece of protection. The first piece of protection should be multi-directional. This means that it shouldn't be able to be pulled out if it moves up or down.
Leader uses a quick draw or extended draw to connect the first piece to the rope.
Leader climbs upwards and places the second piece of protection and repeats until the top of the climb.
Leader creates an anchor and clips into using a screw gate carabiner to become safe.
Seconder takes leader off belay
Leader pulls up all the rope until there's no slack between the leader and seconder.
Leader puts seconder on belay
Seconder climbs up and removes the protection the leader has placed on the way up.
Types of Rock
A number of types of rock are climbed on each with a varying degree of suitability for traditional climbing.
Some examples are Sandstone, Granite and Limestone.
Ethics of Traditional Climbing
While it may be more dangerous than sport climbing, traditional climbing leaves little or no trace of climbing,
which preserves the natural environment of the cliff face. Sport climbing, on the other hand, requires anchors to be permanently drilled into the rock face; a difference which has caused rifts in the rock climbing community between trad climbers and sport climbers.
Further Information
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